Observing a Country at a Snails Pace
Bikepacking Naples 2024
We like to welcome Spring with a bikepacking trip. This year we decided to start in Naples the week before Easter. As we left a chilly and grey Stockholm we were excited to leave behind our heavy winter jackets only to arrive in Naples to everyone wearing their puffy coats. Overall the weather was a welcome departure for us and when you are cycling all day you appreciate what Italians still consider winter temperatures.
Our trip took us from Naples to Vairano Patenora to Roochetta a Volturno to Pescara to Termoli to Campodipietra to Benevento and back to Naples. Taking us in a 400mile circle from the Atlantic coast to the Adriatic coast, briefly visiting the Wolfs Lair along the way, climbing over 8000 meters. We were surprised at the mountains, just not expecting to see such heights. We climbed and climbed, until we saw snow and even stayed in a ski town. We descended to the beach in Pescara on the Adriatic coast, we then hugged the coast on a beautiful bike path (in the rain) to Termoli before climbing back over the mountains to the Atlantic coast. On Good Friday we were in a large town called Benevento and got to experience the energy of Easter in this historic and impressive town.
Overall our trip was everything we expected and more. It provided sunny uphills and exhilarating downhills, severe winds and a day of rain. Bike traveling like this takes you to nooks and crannies that don’t get the attention that their beauty deserves. Many times a day I was amazed at what I conquered up or withstood going down. There was long stretches of contemplation, or just being with the road, and letting all worries subside. This is what I consider spending quality time with your partner and with yourself.
Coffee
Italians drink Italian coffee, or espresso. Small, strong little cups of pick me up, accompanied by a glass of water and sugar packets. I was often intimidated entering an Italian coffee shop, or rather bar, as there would be a dozen or so Italians (mostly men) standing around conversing in expressive Italian.
Roads
Naples had deplorable roads with dangerously large potholes, no bike lanes, impatient cars, and the amount of trash everywhere was astonishing. Seriously, the sheer amount of trash, the bags of clothes, and shoes and furniture just thrown anywhere and everywhere was disheartening. My water bottle actually ejected off my bicycle because the roads were so difficult to ride on. This improved as we left Naples.
Honking
Coming from a quiet driving culture this is new to the earbuds. The honking is a little less expressive when you are in the country but in the city, you can really feel the anxiety of the driving culture. You start to learn that one honk is a friendly gesture mostly meaning, I am behind you so beware. Sometimes you understand the honking to be a conversation, such as “honk honk, honk. Honk. Honk “ Which means “hey neighbor, how is it going? And a reply honk honk, which is interpreted as “Hi, good to see you” Then there is the stoplight honk. The millisecond the light turns green, if your foot is not on the gas, you will get a honk. Honking is just a part of driving in Italy.
Dogs
Dogs are doorbells. When cycling in the country you really need to be on your guard at all times because an anxious guard dog can come out of nowhere. Dogs are often behind gates or tied up but you can never be too sure. The last biker (usually me) was also the one most in danger…Seeing stray dogs or even some of the conditions of the ones behind the gates made my heart ache, I hope they were loved and taken care of and I wanted to bring them all home with me.
Riposo
Siesta or riposo in Italian was something a hungry and tired bikepacker quickly learned about and a reason we carry lots of snacks! All stores, and restaurants close between 15:00 to 19:00 roughly.
Socialising
Traveling through big cities, quaint villages, mountain towns or beaches one common thread was seeing Italian ladies walking arm in arm, chit chatting away, and nothing could alarm them. They walk perfectly in sync as if they have been doing it their whole life. I even noticed a handful of young men, probably sons walking with their moms, grandmothers, arm in arm. It left an imprint in me.
Castles
I don’t know how many castles there are in Italy but I bet it could be in the millions. Castles always sit on the highest point in the village and that means a climb!
Villages
A few hours of climbing Italian hillsides can give you a bounty of beauty overlooking a see of lush greens and villages spotting the landscape. Cycling through these villages often made me feel like I was in a fairytale and the aging stone homes told stories of magic and hope.
Windmills
I am not a fan of windmills for I don’t think their energy is worth the massacre of birds they take out or the eyesore on the landscape. And furthermore, if you see them, you know you will be hitting a head wall of wind!
Vegetable Trucks
As you’re pumping your legs up these steep cobblestoned village roads you may likely hear a smattering of italian words like verdure and naranjas and fruits and vegetables projecting from a loud speaker. These are traveling vegetable stores that go from village to village. How cool is that!
Water
I am ever so grateful that Sweden has delicious water running right from the tap. Water is served in all restaurants and is considered a citizens right. However, it takes some getting used to to always remember to buy water to fill our water bottles. In some of the mountain villages we found water in the town but not all that frequently and you question whether it was safe to drink. This also led to seeing massive amounts of water bottles on the sides of the roads, sadly. We did filter some tap water but it really tasted terrible.
Pizza
Pizza was delicious almost every where. Except at this one place that served fish. Napolitan pizza was fantastic!
Our first real pizza in Naples and it was delish!!!!